White sand beaches, caves with underground rivers, Mayan temples in the jungle, the great blue hole and the “Bonita Island” of Madonna

A good Tuesday in March we dawn in the jungle of Belice: Next to a crystalline river, we have breakfast fry jacks (A kind of fried cakes) with bean sauce, scrambled eggs, bacon, tamarind juice and coffee.

Now, we left for Xunantunich, one of the Mayan archaeological zones that this country in Central America has.

Many Argentines don’t know where it is, but Belize (in English is Belize) It is under Mexico, limits west and south with Guatemala, and its face is bathed by the Caribbean Sea.

Destiny is one of the international mecas of diving and snorkeling for the richness of marine fauna that lives in the surroundings of the second largest coral barrier in the world – after the Australian – and that houses the iconic great blue hole (in English, in English, in English, in English, in English, in English, Great Blue Hole), whose origin dates back to the ice age, 10,000 years ago.

In turn, the first European contact with Belize occurred in 1502 when Cristóbal Colón arrived in the area, but in 1638 England established the first settlement and in 1840 he became a colony and was called British Honduras.

As of 1862 and for a century, it was officially declared British colony, until in 1964 it was granted self -government with a ministerial system. In 1973 they appointed her Belize and in 1981 she achieved independence.

Because of its history, English is the official language of the country, although Belizeños also speak Kriol, Spanish and Maya, among other languages.

To access the archaeological zone of Xunantunich you have to cross the Mopán River. Therefore, travelers and vehicles go up to a ferry that works in a crank and, as a man turns it, the raft moves.

In five minutes, we crossed from one shore to the other the Aguas Verdes course. On one of the margins, artisans sell Mayan calendars in ceramics and multicolored fabric bags.

We are in the district of Cayo, near the border with Guatemala, and we go towards Xunantunich, on top of a hill of the town of San José Succotz.

It is a Archaeological site of the Mayan culture which covers more than 2 square kilometers of surface and was built on a natural limestone crest during the classical period (250 to 900 AD).

With a hat and trekking shoes, we travel the great ceremonial center that, in its years of splendor, had six places and more than 25 temples and Mayan palates.

The castle It is the most important pyramid of Xunantunich, with almost 40 meters high and friezes sculpted on the east and west sides of the structure.

To keep the frieze on the east side – which has a half -point arch – it was covered with a fiberglass replica of the central mask that represents the sun god, next to the moon and Venus.

Unlike other Mayan archaeological zones -such as Chichén Itzá, in Mexico -here you can reach the top of the constructions under the implacable sun.

Xunantunich comes from the Yucatecan Maya and speaks of a stone woman, in reference to a ghost that, according to the Belizeños, lives in the place.

The first modern exploration was led by Thomas Gann between 1894 and 1895, and Eric S. Thompson deepened the investigation around 1930.

We climb the high stone steps of the castle: on the skin they roll drops of sweat, repellent and sunscreen, while an iguana looks at the sky with closed eyes and two monkeys are hamacan in the shade in a tree. On a clear day like this, the exuberant vegetation of neighbor Guatemala is seen.

They say that in Belize there are thousands of caves and each traveler can choose the one that best suits their possibilities.

Most offer stalactites and stalagmites, ceramic fragments or intact pieces (such as Che Chem Ha), bone remains (sometimes intact skeletons, such as Muknal actun Tunichil) and underground waterfalls (Blue Creek, Caves Branch).

Our group is directed to Actun Tunichil Muknal (Atm)which translates as the glass maiden.

After a walk where we cross the river on foot, we enter the atm cave: it does not suit people suffering claustrophobia. One has to Wear grip sole footwear not to slip in the rocks and long pants to protect the legs.

We carry a helmet with light and life jacket, and the guide tells us that if we pass the first test – they juggling with the body and with the water at the waist – we can embark on this adventure until the end.

Beyond its historical importance, this underground wonder is of great natural beauty, with imposing rock formations, stalactites and stalagmites, and a vast camera, similar to a “church”, with a manger included.

The tour is not easy, demand attention and physical skill, but it is really one of Belize’s unmissable. Because when you already imagine the return, another walk begins within the same place: at your fingertips (“Don’t touch!”repeat the guide), appear in the dark dozens of vessels, utensils, bones and skulls of the Maya.

They are all tangible vestiges of the ceremonial and sacrificial purposes of the cave. Until, finally, we see a complete skeleton in a recess: they are the Calcified bone remains of a young woman, known as the glass maiden.

Although Belmopán is the Belizean capital, the most important city – to which international flights and cruises arrive – is the city of Belize. From there, we fly in 15 minutes with Tropic Air – in a plane for 14 passengers – to San Pedro Island, at Cayo Ambergris.

Two data surprise newcomers: that everyone handles golf carts, and that when Madonna sang “Last night I dreamt of San Pedro” in The beautiful islandhe referred to this place.

With many restaurants and businesses, the streets of the center are animated and bustling, with numerous tours options to snorkel and diving, since we are a few kilometers from the Barrier of Coral de Belize.

Being the largest coral barrier of the West Hemisphere and the second largest in the world, it manages to form a huge lagoon along Belize, protecting the coast of large waves.

In this way, it creates an ideal habitat for a wide variety of oceanic creatures, from living corals in the shape of a rock to in danger of extinction and more than 500 species of fish in various shapes and colors.

Declared World Heritage by UNESCO in 1996, the Belizean reef extends for about 300 kilometers, turned 10 thousand years in 2022 and is part of the Mesoamerican reef system.

In turn, Belize promised to preserve 30% of its ocean territory, including its seven protected marine areas that are added to initiatives such as the prohibition of single -use plastics.

With numerous Keys and three of the only four atolls in the Atlantic Ocean, Belize is one of the best destinations on the planet to explore marine fauna and flora, in sites such as the Hol Chan Marina Reserve and the emblematic Great Blue Hole.

He became famous for the French oceographer Jacques Cousteau, who made a first immersion in 1960 and declared this place as one of the ten best diving sites in the world. Since then, lovers of diving and snorkeling arrive from all over the world to venture into the depths.

The big blue hole is an impressive coral ring that surrounds an underwater sink located in the waters of the lighthouse’s atoll.

By flying over the area, we are surprised that it forms a perfect circle, with 300 meters in diameter and 120 meters deep. He did not exaggerate the pilot before the flight of Tropic Air: Blue Hole exceeds expectations and leaves us speechless and with hundreds of photos and videos.

In front of Cayo Ambergris, it is the largest geological formation of its kind on the planet, with a collapsed cave system that was probably formed on the surface 10,000 years ago, at the end of the last ice age.

At present, those who practice diving can contemplate vertical cliffs and outgoing shelves that support stalactites and stalagmites in the deep blue waters.

In the last morning, we left in a boat to practice snorkeling, heading to the Hol Chan Marine Reserve y Shark Ray Alley.

Accompanied by the guide, with frog legs and mask, we see corals, sea turtles, hundreds of fish, small sharks … and already on the surface, also dolphins!

As a farewell, the Belize Food Tours It proposes to travel six typical food stores from 17 to 20, to taste dishes and drinks with rum. We tried shrimp in coconut sauce, ceviches, fish empanadas, Fry Jacks, coffee and chocolate liquors … A sweet closure of the trip, with the feet in the white and fine sand, and the fixed look on the full moon on the calm sea.

• Airlines Copa Flights (Vía Panama) to Belize City, from US $ 1,500.

There are options throughout the country for all budgets.

• In the district of Cayo, Sleeping Giant Rainforest Lodge. This great “Jungle Lodge” in Belize is found in the slopes of the mountains, next to the Sibún River, and surrounded by the Sibún Nature Reserve of 4000 hectares. It has 31 luxury accommodation options, with living room, full kitchen and own pool and a larger next to the restaurant, among many comforts.

• On San Pedro Island, Diamond Beachfront Suites offers rooms with large windows with a view to the turquoise sea, with complete kitchen, living room, infinite pool and jacuzzi.

• Full day at the ATM caves or visit to the archaeological zone of Xunantunich, from US $ 85.

• Survar the Great Blue Hole with Tropic Air, from US $ 250.

• Snorkel from San Pedro Island, from US $ 75.