And great trip to get from the Patagonian beaches to the Andes Mountains, crossing the province of Río Negro: from end to end, along the Somuncurá Plateau, route 23 connects Las Grutas with Bariloche in a trip of 605 kilometers.
This path fills the senses with its impressive setting of natural formations of the Meseta de Somuncurá and the charm of a handful of towns and places, marked by the legacy of original cultures and the contribution of immigrants, who arrived in this unique place, full of legends and mysteries in its excessive dimensions.
Here, one brief guide to plan the route Summer Vacation.
On the road: the state of Route 23
The work of paving The 186-kilometer stretch of Route 23 from Ingeniero Jacobacci to Dina Huapi advanced at accelerated pace in the last two years. However, there is still work in progress gravel segment of 25 kilometers between Clemente Onelli and Comallo, another 10 kilometers at the height of Pilcaniyeu and a last strip of 6 kilometers before reaching the junction of route 40.
In those 41 kilometers you have to drive with utmost care in the vicinity of Cerro Villegas -where there is usually a lot of loose gravel on the road-, as well as in the areas of stones and wells on the way up to San Ramón and between La Fragua and the Invap exit.
The report published this month (January 2024) by Rio Negro Roads highlights the condition of “passable with caution” the gravel part of Route 23 between the Pailemán mountain range and the Los Berros and Ventana streams.
Regarding the more than 550 paved kilometers, it warns about the sectors with undulations from the starting point on Route 3 to Valcheta, the gravel detour in the area of the Nahuel Niyeu stream (at kilometer 115, between Valcheta and Ramos Mexía ) and some marks of deterioration of the road and lack of horizontal signage from Los Menucos to Ingeniero Jacobacci.
In Jacobacci, the new access from the brand new pavement of Route 23. The completed work, with a central dock and good signage, made it possible to eliminate traffic along the old gravel route and connect the northern and southern sectors of the town.
But in that cross (it is not a roundabout), where a sign painted on the asphalt indicates “Stop” and clearly visible signs indicate 60 kilometers per hour as the maximum speed, there are no traffic lights or pedestrian bridge.
Between Jacobacci and Onelli there are continuous sharp curves. From Onelli onwards, “saws” and road machines are added that review the road.
The importance of traveling the final part of Route 23 with maximum attention and care should extend to the abrupt transitions from asphalt to gravel and vice versa.
Furthermore, it is advisable not to step on the accelerator – even without other cars in sight – to prevent the car from being shaken by something. unexpected gust of wind.
Naphtha, diesel or CNG: where to refuel on the route
For those who have gasoline or diesel vehicles, the first three service stations that can be seen from kilometer 0 of route 23 are in Valcheta. Moving west, towards the Cordillera, other possibilities to refuel are the Ministerio Ramos Mexía, Sierra Colorada, Los Menucos, Maquinchao, Jacobacci, Comallo and Pilcaniyeu stations.
For those who need to charge gashe panorama is more complicated. CNG stations do not operate along the entire length of Route 23, so it is important to fill the tank in Viedma or Bariloche, depending on the starting point of the route.
A full gas tank with a capacity of 80 liters has a range of about 200 kilometers: it is essential to convert to the gasoline system halfway along the way.
What stopovers can be made on Route 23 and what can be seen
A postcard from a barrenness discolored by a lime deposit, it stands out in this town founded in 1910.
The Patagonian Train that connects Viedma and Bariloche usually passes through here (which for now has its departures suspended until March 31, as announced on the official website).
The ocher cone of yellow hill It is part of the landscape, among remains of marine fossils and legendary stories that remember the goat and sheep stalls.
Known as the “Oasis of the Southern Line”, Valcheta attracts with the Lino de Roa square and its murals and wooden sculptures, the Petrified Forest Natural Monument on the outskirts – impressive coniferous trunks up to 30 meters long, from a forest that existed 65 million years ago -, the Provincial Museum with objects of paleontology, botany and geology and the Sofía Huanca Artisans Workshop, which brings together masters weavers who work on tapestries and mantras on Mapuche looms and also make wooden pieces.
Part of the local history is in the train station and in School No. 15, opened in 1905.
Located next to a stream, on days of heavy rain and storms, they resurface rumors about appearances of UFOs and jaguars.
Cradle of singers and guitarists, the writer Jorge Castañeda dedicated some verses to him in Allá por Nahuel.
A stream awaits you as if quenching your thirst
with sleepers’ houses near Twenty-three
If people greet you when you pass through Nahuel
remember the tigers that came down to drink.
- KM 181: Minister Ramos Mexía
rural tourism with walks and horseback riding along the Treneta and Yaminué trails define the proposal of this place along with the Pichi Malal Corridor and the traditions of the Tehuelche culture. Bajo de Ramos has five stops on an archaeological circuit.
Before reaching Sierra Colorada, the hills on both sides of Route 23 dominate the landscape. And the flocks of sheep here and there.
In the Gente de Somuncurá cooperative, a group of women work on a Mapuche loom, spinning and dyeing wool with artisanal techniques.
For visitors, this stop proposes visiting the Artisan Marketly get to know the area with some of the horseback riding, trekking and photographic safari programs organized by rural establishments.
The the Ñe Luan lagoon It invites you to take a break and joins the proposals of four establishments in the El Caín area: archaeological sites, cave paintings and caves in the rock formations.
- KM 413: Engineer Jacobacci
Key junction of routes and rails. On Rio Negro soil, the legendary history of the La Trochita train It is also the protagonist in summer, with a route that begins at the Ingeniero Jacobacci station and reaches Ojos de Agua, on a 43-kilometer route. However, following the November 2023 accident, the train is not operating.
Here there is one pulper which offers lunch with local products.
On the other hand, 4 km from the Jacobacci station, the Geopaleontological Park and Recreation Center offers a green space to camp or rest.
In the center of town, steps from the Café de la Estación, are the railway workshops, a general store from the early 20th century and the Jorge Gerhold Museum, the Ñumican Craft Museum.
On the side of a sharp curve on Route 23 to the left, Onelli invites you to practice trekking and hiking in ten circuits drawn in the steppe and the Anecón Grande and Tres Ganchos hills.
From the top of Cerro de la Cruz, the Comallo Valley Viewpoint catches you with the first postcard of the foothills.
Between the hills and the steppe, you can see a dressage field, farm animals, organic gardens and a stream. The first green tones begin to appear.
Shortly before the end of the route along Route 23, Pilcaniyeu has proposals for rural tourism in estancias and a local museum that rescues archaeological treasures, ancestral traditions, flora and fauna.
Route 23 ends in Dina Huapi, and there we connect with route 40 to complete the 17 kilometers that remain to reach Bariloche.
Far from being a place of passage, Dina Huapi allows you to get to know Ñirihuau -the oldest neighborhood-, the three hidden caves in Cerro Leones -it is reached through a 900-meter mountain path-, the native gastronomy, the Ceferino chapel Namuncurá and the views of Lake Nahuel Huapi.
Where to stay on Route 23
- In Valcheta, Baqueanos de Somuncurá hotel: double room with wi-fi and parking, $24,000 (0294- 154309606). Option, La Familia accommodation: per night per person, with parking and wi-fi, $4,000 (02934- 15466780).
- In Sierra Colorada, Peuma lodging, with wi-fi and DirecTV (02984- 15642833 / 02940- 495-205 / sandrasumuncura@hotmail.com).
- In Ramos Mexía, Norma rental house, with capacity for 7 people: per night per person, with kitchen, refrigerator and wi-fi, $5,000 (02920- 15490931).
- In Los Menucos, Gavilán hotel: double room with wi-fi, cable TV and garage, $16,000; triple, $24,000; quadruple, $32,000; breakfast, $2,000 (0299-154691376).
- In Ing. Jacobacci, Argentine hotel: double room with breakfast, wi-fi, cable TV, minibar and garage, $24,000; triple, $30,000; quadruple, $40,000 (0294- 154396010 / hotelargentinojaco@gmail.com / www.hotelargentino.com.ar).
Where to get information
- In Bs. As., House of the Province of Río Negro: Tucumán 1916, tel. 4371-7273/7078 / casaprovincviarionegro@gmail.com