what and where to eat in this destination in Uruguay

From the park Las Liebres Region, one of the managers looks at the river and raises her right arm in front of her. “See those buildings over there? Well, that’s Puerto Madero,” she says as if she could touch them, while here everything is calm.

Behind him, the waiters are preparing to receive the diners of a restaurant that operates in a 1920’s house. Meanwhile, she shows some of the rooms in the place. And some armchairs invite you to enjoy the wait with a glass of wine in hand.

Separated only by 45 kilometers of river from Buenos Aires, Colonia, in Uruguay, was always that option at hand to go from the noise of the city to the calm of narrow stone streets.

There is your Historic neighborhood which is a World Heritage Site, its Real de San Carlos bullring and also a quality gastronomic offer in full development.

Last year, the Tourist Association of the Department of Colonia, together with the Gastronomic Chamber of Colonia, began to develop the KM0 gastronomic network, which brings together 15 restaurants in the department and seeks to enhance its offer, together with 13 wineries that open their doors to tourism.

The idea is just to cross those kilometers of river that separate us and enjoy a map of flavors, ranging from wine to cheese, including sausages and olive oil.

In the historic center, visit the Colony Wine Bar It is a good way to learn about Uruguayan wines. The small shop sells cheeses, sausages and, of course, local labels.

In the wine-by-the-glass section of their menu, there are 14 local options, along with an extensive variety of local artisanal cheeses, like Paysandú and Colonia. Manager Wilde Raimondo recommends which wine pairs best with which cheese, talks about the emblematic tannat and a growing and excellent production of Albariño.

80 kilometers from Colonia, in Carmelo, is Tannat Villagea boutique winery that made its first harvest in 2023. In addition to being in a beautiful countryside, with a restaurant, the winery has some peculiarities: some of their wines are in 500-liter clay amphorae and they offer a free guided tour, although If you prefer with a tasting, there is a cost.

Juan Sobot, the house sommelier, patiently explains the process and shows a grappa, which is in the process of being made. The visit ends with the tasting of a tannat rose 2023 and a tannat 2022 in the famous amphorae and with lunch at the on-site restaurant.

The Las Liebres Regionin Cologne, produces its own wine, which he sells in his restaurant led by chef Hugo Soca and to those staying in his rooms. It’s called Lebrato – the hare’s brood – and it is a blend of great character of tannat, syrah, marselan and an overripe tannat. When Pedro Melnitzky is asked where you can buy the wine, he answers with a smile: “Only here. You have to come to try it.”

In the city center, some restaurants stand out for their offer. “We have been fire since 1984,” says the letter from The other gate. In addition to a sumptuous steak eye, its menu – short but tasty – stands out for a fainá with Tannat onion, with cologne cheese and herbs and a glorious gizzard with a creamy potato sauce. A tip for cocktail lovers: they offer drinks with a gin that they make themselves.

Viera House It is also characterized by a short menu, but with balanced dishes. In particular, the grilled prawns in merkén oil, fresh avocado salad, cilantro, red onion, cherry tomatoes, grilled ricotta and crunchy hazelnuts. They also serve braised lamb ravioli and roasted cabutia risotto, kale, brie cheese and caramelized almonds.

The walk can continue in the historic Real de San Carlos Bullringwhich below its stands has the space Quinton, with a proposal based on Mediterranean cuisine. “Mainly, cheeses, wines and cured meats,” summarizes Proinsias O’Neill, a reference for the place and other gastronomic ventures in the area.

After dinner and wine, the night walk is a great plan in Cologne.

On the Street of Sighs and others in the historic center, the silence is tame. You can almost touch it. That small artery without sidewalk continues on a slope until the Silver river. One is fascinated by the still night and the water. “There in front is Puerto Madero,” someone said a few hours ago. But we are here, where calm rules. And that doesn’t matter anymore.

• Colonia Express and Buquebus travel every day from Buenos Aires to Colonia. One-way tickets from $37,000 and $42,000, respectively.

• Located in the Historic Neighborhood of Colonia del Sacramento, Posada Don Antonio is an 1850 mansion converted into a hotel. There are rooms on a double basis from US$ 80. Includes breakfast (smreservas.com or WhatsApp 00598-45225344).

• A few kilometers from the city, Comarca Las Liebres is a six-room restaurant and boutique hotel – it houses a maximum of 16 people – immersed in a 30-hectare neighborhood with vineyards and organic gardens. They have spacious rooms from US$280 a night, with a la carte breakfast included (lasliebres.com.uy).

• One dollar is equivalent to 38 Uruguayan pesos.

• At the El Otro Portón restaurant, in the center of Colonia, an eye of steak costs 820 pesos (@elotro.porton).

• In Carmelo, the Pueblo Tannat winery has tastings of three labels with lamb empanadas for 1,050 pesos (pueblotannat.com.uy).

• Vinoteca de la Colonia offers Uruguayan wines, cheeses, sausages and preserves. A tasting of three glasses of wine of your choice costs 455 pesos (@vinotecadelacolonia).

• At the La Locanda bar, a gin and tonic made with the local Sur 34 gin costs 400 pesos (@lalocandabar); Live bands play there.

• At the Casa Viera restaurant, braised lamb ravioli, clarified lemon thyme butter, candied cherry cream and cologne cheese (@casa.viera) cost 730 pesos.