Trip to the vineyards of “Loco HESS”

Cerros ocher, reddish, gray and even violet; Cardones who break the desert horizon with its erect, rounded and slope silhouette; Ripio routes that zigzagen and cross dried rivers that are guessed torrentous in times of rain; towns that appear and are left behind in a sigh; people who dry red peppers next to the road; colorful fabrics that contrast with adobe walls.

Get to the Bodega Coloméin the middle of the Calchaquí valleys, near Molinos, province of Salta, is all that and more. It is also to stop on the side of National Route 68 and be wrapped by the formation of the Amphitheaterin the creek of the shells. Or take time to eat and enjoy some wines in the Amalaya terrace -Part of the Colomé Group-, which balcony the beautiful vineyards of Cafayate.

Or, for the most adventurous and already on National Route 40, advance and climb a path until it reaches Looking for the snowdriftin the Protected Area Natural Monument Angastaco. It does not demand more than 10 minutes and the view is very good.

To the first leg of Colomédepending on the path that is taken, one can also stop to admire the work of the weavers in the Road of the artisans of Seclantáswalk the streets of Cachi and knowing its iconic churchor keep the look attached to the window during the sinuous route of the Cuesta del Bishop.

Between ups, descents and gravel, the road to the winery is not easy or brief, but maybe there is Much of his magic. Because whoever looks at that old hacienda- where in addition to the winery and the vine unique, spectacular and unforgettable.

It is 2,300 meters above sea level 3 and a half hours / 4 by car from Cafayate on National Route 40 (there are 130 km).

Founded in 1831Colomé is the winery in continuous operation oldest in Argentina. His current imprint began to emerge In 2001, with the arrival of the Swiss Donald HESS and his wife Úrsulawho completely transformed the place, from the wine production to the proposals of wine tourism, sustainability and improvements in life in the local community, the Colomé place, where some 50 families (600 people) live.

We arrive at the hotel with the closed night, so we first fell in love with the huge rooms (There are 9, two of them are Master Suites), where in the dark a private terrace is guessed that- we will discover the next day- invites you to relax and enjoy the landscape of mountains and vineyards.

From there, the hours accumulate sensations, stories, smiles, flavors, passions.

A walk between ancient vineyards and mysterious winea special white lot that can only drink in Colomé. The fresh gloom of the historic building of the bodega original that still stands, with its huge tanks and tanks on the wall. The smell of lavender and the sound of the water running at the central source that you receive in the morning, when you leave the room in search of breakfast (all rich and done there).

We continue: the charm of an outdoor lunch and a gastronomy with the seal of Patricia Courtois (Winner of the Baron Grand Prix B). A horse ride between cactus and vineyards. The experience in the surprising James Turrell museum, designed specifically for Colomé and where one puts the body, the senses and emotions in each work. Or a dinner that starts with a more informal and cozy “joint”, where tasty meat empanadas parade.

And the possibility, again and again, of taste and learn about different wines; On the work, search and passion of Donald and the entire team, including agronomists and winemakers, to reach each of the wines that we now savor in a drink.

The story of what we see today in Colome begins when In 1996, Donald HESS came to South America In search of “the best wines.” He was in Chile and, also, also in Mendoza. Nothing convinced him.

As a vacation mode for the North Argentina, he tried a glass of wine that shook him and channeled the story of Colomé, and also the life of the HESS family. The time had come to start thinking about “The best height wines.”

And this of height is something that we are going to listen to these days.

HESS started with the vineyards of El Arenal, at 2,600 meters above sea level, and soon he could buy Colomé, at 2,300 meters. All this as part of an adventure full of anecdotes Between the search for land with groundwater and its pendulum, the frustrated visits to Colomé through a grown river that persistently closed the passage and purchase of hectares where others only saw a large desert. The more the Swiss was excited with his projects in the north, the more his fame grew as The “Crazy HESS”.

In 2004 he joined the team French Thibaut Delmottewhich at that time was 26 years old, had just graduated as a winemaker and was traveling through South America. Paso by Salta, someone told him about HESS’s work, and sent his curriculum.

With a rented Corsa and much later of the scheduled hour, the young winemaker arrived in Colomé for the job interview, even unable to believe that there were people working in such a remote place.

“Donald told me that he had a vineyard planted in Payogasta, who had bought land at an even greater altitude for another vineyard and was planning to build a cellar for a million liters of wine. I asked if I had read my CVbecause clearly I did not have the experience for a project like that. I replied something that struck me deeply: ‘Don’t worry, we will grow together, ”says Thibaut.

What seemed impossible It would cease to be with the thrust of “Loco Hess.” And Thibaut stayed.

Donald died at the beginning of 2023, but his legacy is still standing, and currently Larissa and Christoph Ehrbar, second generation of the family, are in charge of business, accompanied by a great team, many of them part of this project since its inception.

Rumbo to Salta airport to return home, the return of Colomé stretches with a stop at the Arenal, from where We climb up to maximum heighta vineyard at 3,111 meters above sea level, one of the highest in the world (there is one in the Tibet that stayed with the record: it is 3,563 meters).

A table in the “House of the Founder” gallery – constructed by HESS, is now used for meetings and specific events of the winery – overlooking plantations, roast and potato and egg salad circulating among diners.

Once again, Thibaut’s voice is imposed that, every time he opens a bottle, unfortunate and transmits his passion with fervor. Again, the table cups are transformed into a label parade that mark the weight and force of height (We tried Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Malbec of maximum height, in addition to Malbec from El Arenal).

We give one last look at the vineyards, we load the bottles of water for the road and, while the emotions are lost between the curves of the Bishop’s slope, I try to imagine Donald, more than 20 years ago, reaching these landscapes for the first time and achieving what seemed impossible.

For Colomé guests there is a program with activities at exclusive schedules (Historical Walk through old vineyards, old winery, new winery with wine tasting and Turrell Museum).

• From $ 450,000 per night for two, with breakfast and activities.

• With half pension and activities, from $ 610,000.

• Special program: two nights with breakfast, appetizer and 3 -step dinner with drinks for two people, from $ 798,000.

For visits for the day, open on Tuesday to Sunday with reservation.

• Winery and museum with a welcome and tasting cup of 3 labels, $ 72,000 per person

• Letter lunch with dishes from $ 17,000 or 3 -step menu with drinks for $ 80,000.
• Self -guided tastings of 3 wines, from $ 35,000.

• In addition, there are private visits and pairing options such as 5 -step lunch and 5 wines.