The surprising Guapurú reserve, an ecotourism refuge in Formosa

If there is something that the resident of Formosa is he exuberant display of nature throughout the entire territoryfrom the western limit with Salta to the Paraguay River and – from north to south – between the Pilcomayo and Bermejo rivers.

Baths, palm groves, gallery jungles, streams that run in zigzaglagoons, mountains of colossal trees, mammals of all sizes and birds of impossible colors offer a spectacle to enjoy with all the senses, which reaches its most complete expression in the Bañado La Estrella and the Río Pilcomayo National Park.

In a more limited area than the two most renowned ecoregions of the province, 150 kilometers from Formosa capitalthe Guapurú Private Natural Reserve It monopolizes, in a perfect synthesis, all that baggage of biodiversity that resists the attacks of predation in the Northeast of the country.

The sudden appearance of a carayá at the feet of a specimen of guapurú – the park’s flagship tree-, where the tour begins guided by one of the five low difficulty trailssuggests to visitors that they have just entered the kingdom of the howler monkey.

But a few meters further on, on this fresh and bright morning, a mirikiná – a generally elusive variety of ape with nocturnal habits – is also noticed, gained by curiosity in the presence of strange beings that advance at slow steps alternating with long pauses. .

It is that, here, each specimen of mammal, insect, reptile or bird has its territory won and does not advance further. For this reason, nothing seems to alter the criss-crossing flights of the woodpeckers, the fruit-growers, climbers that come and go in flocks, birds of prey and cattle herders, along the path that borders the Monte Lindo stream.

They don’t even flinch at him soft purr of a boat coupled to the murmur of the voices of the guide and the tourists who accompany him, with their cameras pointing at every detail of the magnificent setting of vegetation and fauna that accompanies the walk.

“Each of the trails crosses various environments, such as quebrachal, grassland, gallery jungle, estuary, swamp, palm grove,” explains Fabián Pinasco, professional photographer specialized in ecotourism and owner along with his colleague Vero Reckit of this sustainable nature refugean area of ​​balanced forces that contrasts markedly with the devastating footprints of deforestation and climate change.

Any fan of photography and a moving image can be satisfied if they strain their ears and detect the melodious song of the cardinal bird to leave fixed in a dream photo the set of red plumage on the head, the immaculately white torso, the wings and tail dyed shiny black and the lively eyes, as if on fire.

But in Guapurú it is advisable not to settle for the first impact. At any time, from the cup entwined with vines From an imposing lapacho, a timbó, an ombú or a stylized viraró, a white-eyed and yellow-plumed woodpecker can emerge, a female tersina covered in phosphorescent green or a pair of charatas that make their way with pure scream. They are other good arguments to delight the eyes.

You also have to be willing to be secretly scrutinized by the persistent glances -which outline a certain inquisitive air- of the pampas harrier and the mountain fox.

Until the end of the route – where the serpentine channel of Monte Lindo widens and the stream mutates into a river, which points towards the mouth of the Paraguay River – the inhabitants of the reserve maintain their suspicious attitude and the tourists enjoy themselves with the magnificent postcards dispensed under a wrinkle-free sky.

They will carry in their memory a complete sample of the humid Chaco ecoregion in all its splendor, experienced through its most representative pieces.

• From the city of Buenos Aires to the Guapurú reserve there are 1,330 kilometers along route 9 (Panamericana Campana branch), Rosario-Santa Fe highway, route 11 to Formosa capital and route 81; In Pirané turn right onto a dirt road and continue for 50 km.

• Semi-sleeper bus El Pulqui, VíaTAC, El Cometa, Águila Dorada Bis or ERSA from Retiro to Formosa capital (4 to 6 p.m.), $57,170 to $71,000 one way; sleeper car, $67,000 to $87,350.

• Airlines fly non-stop from Monday to Saturday at 8:40 am from Aeroparque to the city of Formosa (1 hour 45′): round trip with taxes, from $505,811.

• Common bus or semi-cape Puerto Tirol from Formosa capital to Pirané (100 km; arrives in 2 hours 15′), $5,700.

• Remís Juan for 4 passengers from Pirané to the Guapurú reserve, $35,000 one way (0370- 154627349).

• In the Guapurú reserve, cabin with wi-fi, bedding, towels, electric oven, microwave, dishes, refrigerator, stove, lunch, dinner and two breakfasts, $120,000 per night per person.

• In Pirané, Magalí hotel: double room with garage, wi-fi and cable TV, $25,000; triple, $30,000; quadruple, $40,000 (0370- 154709051 / 0370-446-0275/452-3593 / hotelmagali.pirane@gmail.com / Facebook: Hotel Magalí Pirané).

• In Formosa capital, Nuevo Real hotel: double room with breakfast, cable TV, wi-fi and garage, $22,000; triple, $30,000; quadruple, $40,000; quintuple, $48,000 (0370-442-8441).

• Entrance to the Guapurú reserve, $50,000; includes breakfast, lunch of traditional food or barbecue, guided boat ride and walk.