The most famous dish, a legendary grocery store and several famous people on a getaway to Maipú

To the height of kilometer 274 of route 2the restorative view of the sea is still a distant illusion. For a long time, the green of the humid pampas will continue to impose its overwhelming vastness. But here, between Dolores and Mar del Plata, the attractions of Maipua good excuse to downshift a couple of gears and ignore the vertigo of the highway for a while.

These days, neighbors and authorities share the expectation for the third edition of “A minute of cinema”an open invitation addressed to professional and amateur filmmakers from all over the country, to be held on October 4 and 5so that they can capture in short films a profile of the town, the discreet scope of the urban landscape, the rural environment, daily life, the skills of the artisans or the traces of the founding era.

The most famous dish in Maipú

The first screenshot to take into account appears on the side of the shoulder, in the comedor Sweet Mothera kind of essential beacon for travelers warned of the well-earned fame of the Complete Marriagea delight that combines chorizo ​​- the town’s specialty – with blood sausage, potatoes and fried free-range eggs.

In 1968, as soon as Guillermo Ercoreca and his wife Evangelina Bilbao opened the doors of the restaurant, the truck drivers found the best refuge to regain strength with abundant portions of sausages and soup.

Today it is the young man Juani – son of that visionary Basque immigrant – who reveals with some reluctance some secret of the most requested dishwhile also taking the opportunity to praise the homemade flavor of the Milanese, the pork loin, the pasta and the flan.

More than a gastronomic proposal expressed without raising his voice, Juani Ercoreca’s suggestions seem like the starting point to begin to weave a itinerary through the heart of this towncrossed from end to end by its historical references and the marks of tradition created by Spaniards, Italians, Creoles and the original Pampas settlers.

A circuit through the history and tradition of Maipú

The identity baggage of the Maipuenses revives within the walls of the centenary building that houses the Municipal Museum. Among the leafy collection of pieces from the past gathered in seven rooms, references to Francisco Madero – the founder of Maipú -, agricultural machines, a hearse and a luxurious Ford voiturette stand out.

Bust of Francisco Madero, founder of Maipú, in Plaza San Martín. In the background appears the dome of the Nuestra Señora del Rosario church. Photo Municipality of Maipú

Another unavoidable post is the cultural center created in tribute to the poet and essayist Leopoldo Marechalthe illustrious novelist of “Adán Buenosayres” who used to seek refuge in Maipú as a place for inspiration and rest.

On a walk along a dusty dirt path with the infinite field fixed on the horizon, the The Gaucho Paths circuit Melitón Fierro It offers a charming tour through the 18th and 19th centuries through grocery stores, posts and signage more suitable for cart and galley drivers.

The outing can extend to the shore dotted with reeds, otters, ducks and swans of the Kakel Huincul lagoon, 12 kilometers from Maipú. A wooden pier brings together silverside, carp, toothfish, tararaira and catfish fishermen and tourists, who find an impeccable viewpoint of the rural landscape at the end of the structure that is more than 200 meters long.

Kayak crossing in the Kakel Huincul lagoon, 12 kilometers from Maipú. Photo Municipality of MaipúKayak crossing in the Kakel Huincul lagoon, 12 kilometers from Maipú. Photo Municipality of Maipú

From here there remains one more stretch to travel between the fragrances that nature dispenses to the abandoned house of the legendary Pulpería de Santa Isabela meeting place for countrymen – punctuated by drinks, trick games and some heated discussions – near the Madariaga payments.

Part of this itinerary replicates the traditional horseback ride The Return of Pancho Ramos Mejíaa healthy custom that traditionalist groups preserve to show their guests their attachment to barbecue, fried cakes, singing, guitar playing and payada, while a bonfire among friends lights up the dark night on the edge of the lagoon.

To extend without much effort the more than relaxed stay in Maipú, the curiosity of the visitors is stirred by the centenary white facade of the Cinema Theater of the Italian Societya neoclassical detail that shines in front of one of the corners of Plaza San Martín. Two blocks away, the Nuestra Señora del Rosario church makes a similar impact.

The abandoned construction of the Santa Isabel Grocery Store, on the road from Maipú to General Madariaga. Photo CICE Cultural CenterThe abandoned construction of the Santa Isabel Grocery Store, on the road from Maipú to General Madariaga. Photo CICE Cultural Center

In 1999 it opened its doors restaurante Stylowhose unparalleled pastas, meats – with pepper loin and chorizo ​​steak at the top – and fish are due to the expert hand of chef Rubén “Cheya” Irigoy, disciple of “Gato” Dumas and, at this point, elevated by his neighbors and clients to the pedestal of low profile celebrity and few words.

These days, the people of Maipu are preparing to enjoy the warmer days that frame the festival of moviegoers, the two-day journey on horseback and the outbreak of the National Friendship Carnival Festival, the largest event animated by three troupes. , a children’s parade, floats and masks. However, while the wait drags on, there are other valid reasons to approach Maipú with an attentive eye and deviate from the route.

One of the seven rooms of the Municipal Museum of Maipú, province of Buenos Aires. Photo Municipal MuseumOne of the seven rooms of the Municipal Museum of Maipú, province of Buenos Aires. Photo Municipal Museum

How to get to Maipú

  • From the city of Buenos Aires to Maipú it is 274 kilometers along the Cañuelas Highway and Route 2.
  • Cóndor Estrella common bus from Retiro (5 hours 15′), $27,050 one way; semi-bed, $33,100.
  • Roca Train from Constitución (4 hours 15′), $20,000 in First and $24,000 in Pullman; from 3 to 12 years, 50%; retired, 60%.

Where to stay in Maipú

  • Residencial Munich: $11,000 per person with cable TV and wi-fi (02268- 421-534).
  • Posada de Luna Cabins: for two people with cable TV, wi-fi and parking, $18,000; breakfast, $2,500 (02268- 15516021 / 02268- 421-435 / rocairigoin@gmail.com / www.infoposadadeluna.wixsite.com / Facebook: Posada de Luna).
  • Hospedaje Lamarque: double room with wi-fi and cable TV, $16,000; triple, $24,000; quadruple, $24,000 (02268- 421- 919 / 02268- 15518466).
A view of the Kakel Huincul lagoon, at kilometer 260 of Route 2.A view of the Kakel Huincul lagoon, at kilometer 260 of Route 2.

How much does it cost to eat in Maipú

Pork loin with fried eggs, French fries, half chorizo ​​and half blood sausage at the Ama Gozua restaurant, $15,500; Complete marriage (chorizo, blood sausage, French fries and fried eggs), $14,500; homemade flan, $5,700 simple and $6,500 mixed; simple Milanese, $12,000.

Other silver options: chorizo ​​steak with bell peppers, French fries, bacon and fried egg at the Stylo restaurant, $9,800; pepper loin with creamed potatoes, $9,300; Patagonian trout with prawns, $12,500; pink salmon with Roquefort, $16,500; black salmon panzottis, $5,500; pumpkin ravioli for vegetarians, $3,300; with sauce, $6,200.

Old road signs preserved on one of the rural roads in Maipú, province of Buenos Aires.Old road signs preserved on one of the rural roads in Maipú, province of Buenos Aires.

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