A charming landscape, between mountains, forests and lakes. And also a new enclave gourmet in Patagonia: San Martin de los Andes It is positioning itself with a formula that unites the regional gastronomy that tourists seek with more globalized options and, also, rising trends.
In the shadow of Bariloche giant (less than 200 kilometers along Route 40), the Neuquén town learned the lessons of the most important tourist city in the Cordillera.
The negative ones, in the sense that here there is a jealous care of the development so that it does not lose the charm of an Andean village, and also the positive ones in terms of the consolidation of a proposal that attracts tourists beyond its postcard settings.
The San Martin gastronomic route starts through the streets of the center. At 1017 San Martín Avenue, the main artery, is located Mrs. Quelaa restaurant in what was the dining room of the city’s first hotel, the Lácar.
Es a trip to the pastwith dozens of antique objects such as cups, cutlery, suitcases and photos. What can be tested? Modern regional cuisine, such as bruschetta with candied venison and red fruit chutney, or trout ravioli.
Also in the central area is one of the unmissable restaurants, Torino Bar & Bistro. On the corner of Elordi and Villegas, it emerged as a project of three friends 15 years ago and today it is led by chef Esteban Schniepp, who makes signature cuisine there with a mix of techniques and dishes from international cuisine and local products.
With a modern, fun and relaxed restaurant spirit, it has a diversity in its menu that ranges from regional cuisine to sushi and Milanese dishes. Unmissable? He deer goulashwhich comes with crispy gnocchi sautéed in butter, and trout with rum and passion fruit sauce with your choice of garnish (about $25,000 per plate).
The trout is the protagonist also in Torino sushi, which opened the first bar in the city in 2010. “In the gastronomy of San Martín, regional cuisine coexists with trends and sushi has been one of them, definitively established today. In the rolls we interact with smoked foods and fine fruit, which go very well with white fish. You can make some very nice combinations with local products.”, explains Schniepp about the particularities of San Martin sushi.
There are several sushi restaurants in the city. Another one that stands out is Pantera Bar Bistro (Av. San Martín 713), with a proposal with innovative rolls, such as the one with sheets of bonito or the Gallardo with prawn, avocado and a spicy red band on the topping (tribute to the River team that visited them in 2022).
Hotel proposals
The hotels have also prioritized their gastronomic proposal, for guests and for those who are not staying. Visiting those that are far from the center are also an opportunity to enjoy other landscapes.
About 30 kilometers to the south, in the Lanín National Park, is Beautiful River Mountain Hotel (Route 63 km 67). It is worth having lunch in the wooden lounge in the lobby, enjoying the view of the huge windows, and going out to the “backyard” literally bathed by the Hermoso River, a magical environment.
There, the proposal is structured around the emblems of the region: lamb, pork, deer, troutin heavy dishes (around $30,000). Fishing is one of the recommended ones, only grilled to appreciate the subtlety of its meat. Also the deer ravioli with mushroom sauce, a restaurant classic since it opened 18 years ago. In the afternoon, they serve tea to share with blends designed especially for the hotel by Tealosophy ($48,000 for two). In all cases you have to reserve.
Taking Route 40 in the other direction, towards the north, you will find the Loi Suites Chapelco (National Route 40 Km 2227), the only five-star hotel in the city, which is located in a spectacular resort and golf club. There you can have lunch and dinner in any of its two rooms, Coirones and Astas, with views of the mountains and the leafy pines, and it also has a wine cellar with exclusive labels. It is also by reservation only.
Tea time and the coffee boom
San Martín de los Andes does not escape the specialty coffee boom. “It is one of the places where coffee has grown the most in the last two years. Today there are almost ten specialty coffee shops or with special coffee“, says Marcelo Vigna, barista, teacher and roaster at the coffee laboratory that La Motofeca has in San Martín de los Andes.
One of them is Our dreama pastry shop that in its two central branches (Gral. Roca 868 and Av. San Martín 941) makes it very difficult for its customers to choose: on its counters laminates, cookies, chips and a selection of almost twenty small ones are displayed. cakes.
Best buy tea for twoat $24,000, which comes with a selection of drinks and the typical three-tier plate of the english tea full of pastries, croissants, sandwiches and puddings, as well as cake.
Flower Warehouse (Juan del Valle 876) is another of the featured cafes, strictly speaking a bistro with an all-day offering that has its own organic garden. Their sandwiches, like the trout bagel, are a great lunch option.
Adding to the coffee scene is the new Stranger (a coffee where you can try filtered coffee in a cozy living room with a wood-burning salamander at Elordi 701), Fiora (with several brunch options, including vegetarian and TACC-free, at Villegas 990) and the Barilochense Delirious (with branch at Gral. Roca 595).
Snack time also requires visiting one of the best spots in the city: the Arrayán tea house. At kilometer 4.5 of the Arrayán Circuit is this dream enclave, which in 1936 fell in love with Renée Dickinson, a young English woman who had come to the area to visit her brother who worked on an ranch. He came across this place, bought it and in 1939 opened what is now the oldest tea house in Patagonia.
Renée died shortly after and her remains rest there, under the enormous poplar trees. The tea blender Ornella Aristizabal has run the place since 2017, and promoted a menu with exquisite pastries and own tea blends. The original cabin, the careful tableware and the unique view of Lake Lácar give it the unmissable label.
Artisanal products
The gourmet tour does not forget souvenirs to take home. The list of what we should carry in the suitcase, of course, includes sausages and smoked meats. Featured mention for the craftsmanship he does Don Emiliowith some memorable salami and deer sausages that can be purchased at their location on Belgrano 132.
At the time of chocolatesthere is a trend in signature chocolate, with pieces that seem designer, such as pink with pistachios from Black Paw (San Martín 820). Traditional brands such as historical ones are also added Mommy (the first chocolate shop in the city, at San Martín 601) and Mamuschka (originally from Bariloche, in San Martin 898).
And in the typical fine fruit sweetsa recommendation is before boarding to stop by the stand at the airport. Natural Flavora productive venture of the Puentes de Luz association, which works to provide support to people with disabilities in the area.
As part of their activities at the foundation, young people and adults grow fruits organically and make high-quality sweets from strawberries, blackberries and raspberries, among others, in addition to now also producing honey.
Puentes de Luz recently organized Flavors and Aromas of Patagoniaa gourmet fair that has been held for 18 years in spring, which is a sample of all this diversity of the local culinary offer and had more than 30 exhibitors in its last edition at the Lácar club.
“From the first day all the gastronomy of San Martín de los Andes and the region was at the service of our cause and for that we will always be eternally grateful. And we grew together“, says Luis Rodríguez, its executive director, about this city that is snow, mountains, nature and, also, a lot of flavor.
More information
- Mrs. Quela: Av. St. Martin 1017, @donquela
- Turin Bar & Bistro: Elordi and Villegas, @torino_barbistro
- Pantera Bar Bistro: Av. San Martín 713, @panterabarbistro
- Río Hermoso Mountain Hotel: Route 63 km 67, @rio_hermoso_hotel_de_montana
- Loi Suites Chapelco: National Route 40 Km 2227, @loisuiteshoteles
- Our dream: Gral. Roca 868 and Av. San Martín 941, @unsertraumpasteleria
- Flower Warehouse: Juan del Valle 876, @almacendefloressma
- Stranger: Elordi 701, @forastera.cafe
- Fiora: Villegas 990, @fioracafe
- Delirious: Gral. Roca 595, @cafe.delirante
- Arrayán Tea House: Arrayan Circuit km 4.5, @arrayan_sma
- Don Emilio: Belgrano 132, @regionalesdon_emilio
- Natural Flavor: San Martín de los Andes Airport and Pasaje del Pueblo nº 95, @puentesdeluz_sabornatural
- Black Paw: Of. San Martín 820, @patanegrachocolates
- Mommy: Av. San Martín 601, @chocolateriamamusia
- Mamuschka: Of. San Martin 898, @mamuschkachocolate