Summer tailoring, the true hit of the season

Tailoring is making a strong comeback this summer. It prevailed during the winter, but now it is not losing ground. On the contrary, he wins it.

From dressing Hollywood stars like Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn and Greta Garbo to being an iconic design From designer Yves Saint Laurent, this season the legendary tailored suit is super fashionable.

What is this phenomenon due to? “We are in a moment of minimalism and sophistication that is known as quiet luxury. He rise of this trend has made tailored garments fashionable, since they are simple, timeless and fit perfectly with this aspect that provides a distinguished and clean aesthetic, without the need for too many decorations.

In line with the value currently given to sustainability, they are garments that prove to be well made and durable, something that is not offered by the fast fashion.

Basically they have the advantage of composing looks that elevate the feeling of being well dressed and comfortable at the same time,” explains María Agustina Chazarreta, designer and head of Tailoring at Portsaid.

Social media has also helped popularize modern tailored looks, where versatility is one of its most notable attributes.

“It is an option to use all the time, both for working and going out. As a female artisan tailor and personal image consultant, I always suggest to my clients to have at least three suits, one black, gray or blue, another colored and another checkered or striped, since they give the possibility of putting together more than 12 outfits. different, both for every day and for moments where you need to be more well-groomed,” says Flora Lemes, the only female tailor in the country and founding member of the Argentine Tailoring Association, chaired by Francisco Gómez, who has just officially launched the first National Registry of Tailoring.

This wild card, which in its traditional variant includes the set of jacket, vest and pants, today occupies a prominent place in the collections of local brands.

“This season is one of the main bets of FT Yagmour tailoring, a line that includes classic designs with a nod of modernity and renewal.

The color palette focuses on light or pastel tones, which provide a polished and versatile look. Among the textiles, the stretch crepe is the star, suitable for garments that need to maintain their shape without losing comfort. Also linen, which we use to create blazers, baggy pants, vests and shorts in white and earth tones such as caramel brown and olive green,” says the brand’s design team.

Although the total tailored look is a mustanother of the trends of the season is to combine it with closet essentials; for example, a jean with a blazer. And even set a trend by joining the athleisure style, which allows you to assemble a jacket with palazzos and sneakers.

“As for the silhouettes, two options take center stage: the blazers that reach the second hip and those fitted at the waist that usually have significant shoulder pads and emphasize the neckline with maxi lapels. Now, for those who want to show a little more, there is nothing better than combining a tailored vest directly on the skin with tailored Bermuda shorts, a duet that goes very well with moccasins or stilettos,” says Chazarreta.

It is a fact, a piece that is here to stay is the tailored vest. “Whether in a short or maxi version, it becomes a super versatile garment for a day in the sun. While for a cocktail party or outing, tailoring doesn’t require a shirt. A top or corset can be a great ally or even worn as a first skin. Furthermore, a jacquard suit in animal print, off white or pearl gray cannot be missing from a closet background. The new tuxedo also offers cropped jackets made with a metallic texture or enriched with intertwined chains on the lapel,” says Carolina Rosales, product manager at Desiderata.

Without a doubt, contemporary details and relaxed lines are displacing straight-cut suits. “As for the current aesthetics, there is a strong influence from the ’90s and 2000s, with elements such as high-waisted pants, blazers with a longer cut and asymmetrical details, such as lapels of different sizes or unusual closures that provide a modern touch.

The most popular versions include suits with mixed fabrics, which combine different textures such as wool with silk. These innovations allow each woman to choose an outfit that not only suits her figure, but also reflects her personality and unique style,” says Nicolás Pernas, executive director of GNZ, the brand that has just launched a line of women’s tailoring.

Meanwhile, for designer Pablo Ramírez, among the upcoming silhouettes and aesthetics, blazers that highlight the waist, wide pants and flared skirts stand out. In addition, the most elegant version of the two-piece suitthe tuxedo, is established as an ally to wear in formal and informal contexts, while those with a minimalist line go over any dress with jeans and sneakers.

For this local and international fashion reference, tailoring, which has been part of his style for 25 years, now adds off-white as a novelty, a natural color that is always very flattering because it gives off light.

All these versions coexist with custom-made options. “It is a highly sought-after alternative for those women who cannot find a suit that fits them well on the market. That is why it is worth clarifying that “custom” means that it is made exactly with the proportions of the body that is going to wear it, achieving a perfect fit and freedom of movement without having to adjust your clothes all the time,” highlights Lemes.

And continues: “I work only and exclusively with fabrics from natural fibers, where the most used is wool fiber. Regarding pure wool fabrics, there are summer, winter and mid-season ones, the latter being the most chosen. It is a completely hygroscopic fiber, meaning that in cold weather, the fiber will expel moisture from the body outwards, while in hot weather it will act in the opposite way. I also work with a wide variety of pure wool, wool with silk or cotton fabrics in many colors and with different motifs. “Really choosing the genre is a one-way trip.”

At this moment, tailoring and recycling are an established theme. “Sustainability is no longer a trend but rather it is the way in which we have to do things out of respect for the environment, people and the planet. And in this context it is crucial to revalue the suit. In this sense, we recover them not only by adjusting them to measure, but also by redesigning them with different models that we have developed in our years of career,” says Flor Dacal, designer of the Somos Dacal brand.

For this, different parts vary: lengths, cuffs and collars. “We transform garments into others from a catalog that we offer to our clients. Once the model is chosen, they try it on and order it. In a week or a month the piece is delivered with a final proof. With this personalized service we propose a meeting between custom tailoring and vintage garments,” concludes Dacal.