“It’s Floripa much more than beaches”. With that phrase as a motto, we began our visit to Florianópolis in a place that we could call “strange”. At least, for what most people come here to look for, such as 130,000 Argentines who arrived last season to this destination in southern Brazil, according to the local tourism entity: their Beaches; many and varied, for every taste.
Why a “strange” place? Because the arborism It is not the first thing that comes to mind, surely, when thinking about Florianópolis. And yet here we are, crossing between treetops balancing on steel cables, hanging bridges, net walls and logs suspended in the air; insured by the “life line”, which promises to support us in the event of a fall.
A fun tour that culminates with two long stretches of zip lines in a forest that combines araucarias with conifers and palm trees, among other species. Arborism is one of the unmissable experiences heresame as him raftingin the midst of nature.
To locate ourselves, we go from the particular to the general: we are in the Apuama Rafting adventure tourism agency, next to the enormous Plaza Caldas Resort hotel, in the Serra do Tabuleiro State Parkwhich protects one of the largest reserves of the Atlantic Forest, with its rich fauna and flora, as well as hot springs.
And although we may have the impression of being very far from Florianópolis, this is not the case: The island is just here, 38 km awayso without a doubt this place is a great getaway for those looking for an alternative to the beaches, at least for a day.
In the park, through mountains full of vegetation, there are several trails for trekking and crossing paths with monkeys, capybaras, deer or foxes, in addition to many species of birds. Or go for an amazing rafting trip on the Cubatão River, with jumps and rapids typical of a mountain river, even though we are only 11 km from the sea in a straight line.
In Serra do Tabuleiro there is scientific research, environmental education and ecotourism, but also thermalism: the enormous Caldas Resort offers thermal water in pools and in the bathtubs of the rooms and different therapeutic and aesthetic treatments, in addition to activities for the whole family, including a great club for kids and a pet friendly area.
Oysters at sunset
We returned to the island of Santa Catarina -where Florianópolis is- to enjoy one of the obligatory sunsets: if the adventure raised the adrenaline, the walk through Saint Anthony of Lisbon, one of the oldest and most romantic neighborhoods from Floripa, where the first Azorean immigrants arrived, in 1748.
On the cobbled streets they stand old period houses that sweeten the short walk along Cônego Serpa street from Roldão da Rocha Pires square to the Our Lady of Necessities church, built between 1750 and 1756, and whose interior displays typical elements of the Azores islands.
On Rua Quinze de Novembro, on the coast, there are bars and restaurants specializing in fish and seafoodand including a oyster farm with which you can take a complete tour, visiting the cultivation site on a boat and ending with a plate tasting minutes later.
Among the restaurants on the coast is Villa do Porto, in a building that used to be a customs office. In its warm interior or at the tables on the sidewalk, in front of a sea that reflects the lights of the continental part of the city on the other side, it is necessary to order one of the most traditional menus: oystersboth naturally, only with lemon, or to the breath -boiled in cachaça-, or gratin or with aioli and vinaigrette.
It’s not the cheapest place, of course, but the place is worth it for the history, the atmosphere, the viewss: here the portion of 6 units costs between 34 and 51 reais (from 6,800 to 10,200 Argentine pesos); In more popular restaurants this is what 12 units cost.
“On the island we have many gastronomic routes, and Santo Antonio de Lisboa is the scene of the Sunset Gastronomic Route“Being on the west side of the island, this waterfront is filled every afternoon with people who contemplate and applaud the sunset,” explains Elaine Neves, from the Destino Floripa promotion organization.
Another unmissable dish here -as on the entire island- are the shrimp; for example, Milanese style, breaded with panko – a type of Japanese breadcrumbs – or with garlic and olive.
To the center and the market
The island of Santa Catarina is also known as “island of magic”, because of the stories and legends that tell that witches lived here, and even came to learn to fly. Now, it is said, several witches live in the centuries-old and enormous fig tree that unfolds its long branches – supported by iron columns – in the heart of Plaza XV de Novembro, “center of the center” of Floripa.
Surrounding it are the Cathedral, the state government and other official offices, banks and places worth visiting such as the Florianópolis Museumwhich explains in a brief and didactic way – with interactive screens and cutting-edge technology – the history of Portuguese colonization, sadly linked to the slave trade.
On the Felipe Schmidt pedestrian street there are shops, restaurants, and souvenir shops, and going down Praça Fernando Machado street we reach the Largo de Alfândega walkwaywhich in the past was the seashore.
Here were the old customs – today a beautiful craft gallery-, the old pier – the old sea line is honored with a fountain that represents it -, and now, under a modern pergola, there is cafes and bars and tour guides can be hired at a rate of 250 to 350 reais for a group.
Unmissable the picturesque Public Marketwith places to buy fresh seafood products and a central esplanade full of tables where you can try typical flavors in a rich and beautiful place, of good standard and with history, although not cheap: think about no less than 150 reais ($30,000) per person.
A few blocks away it is worth visiting another food place: Rita Maria warehouse, in what was once a large industrial complex built by the German immigrant Carl Hoepcke in the 19th century; one of the pioneers of the industrial development of Santa Catarina.
The place was carefully restored -including a fantastic metal structure brought from Scotland that was not in sight-, and became a space for art, culture, gastronomy and leisure.
The last stop on this tour is the spectacular Hercilio Luz, the longest suspension bridge in Brazilwhich opened in 1926 and ended the need to take rafts to cross between the island and the mainland.
Today it is still used, but on Sundays it is closed to traffic so that tourists and locals can enjoy it on foot, by bike or skateboard. Between the steel grating you can see the waters of the sea, 75 meters below your feet.
But of course, we can’t leave Floripa without a good dip in one of its 27 recommended beaches, among the 42 on the island. The comfortable tourist bus By Buswhich stops at different stations, crosses the charming area of Conceição Lagoona huge saltwater lagoon where you can fish, sail and practice water sports, with beautiful houses on its shores and several bars and clubs, to reach the Joaquina beach.
Like all open beaches in the eastern area of the island -Campeche, Moçambique, Ingleses Norte, among others, Joaquina has a strong waves, attractive for bathers and also – and above all – for surfers. A few meters away, high dunes are the ideal setting for sandboarding.
Delicious dip and back to the bus to head north, towards the area most chosen by Argentines each year: above all Canasvieirasalthough also the neighbors Waterfall y Ponta das Canas.If this is the chosen beach, the advice would be look for accommodation here just so as not to waste time on transfers and because being the area with the most accommodation options, it is where best prices They are usually obtained.
Now, with a cool caipirinha in hand, we finish this tour of Floripa in Ponta das Canasa beach that, because it faces west, is another date spot to watch great sunsetswith the sun stretching its reflection on the sea as it approaches the horizon.
MINIGUIDE
● The low cost JetSmart has one or two daily flights from Ezeiza, depending on the day; round trip in January and February, from $278,547 (www.jetsmart.com).
● From Buenos Aires by the shortest route, crossing Uruguay through Colón-Paysandú and entering Brazil through Santana do Livramento, it is 1,625 km. A liter of super gasoline in Brazil costs between 5.80 and 6 reais, equivalent to 1.20 dollars or about $1,200 at the “real blue” price.
● By bus: companies such as Flechabus, Mercobus or JBL go from Retiro. The trip lasts 28 hours and tickets (one way) cost $80,600 for a semi-bed and $105,000 for a bed.
● Majestic Palace (4 est.): from 730 reais for a double room with breakfast in January (www.majesticpalace.com.br)
● Plaza Caldas da Imperatriz Resort (all inclusive), from 1,117 reais for a double (www.plazahoteis.com.br/caldasimperatriz).
● Costao do Santinho (all inclusive): 3,180 reais for two, 3,572 for two adults and two minors. Air package included, US$ 1,300 per week per person (www.costao.com.br).
●Rentals in Canasvieiras: apartments, for up to 6 people from 650 reais per day; for 3, from 400 reais. House for up to 10 people, from 1,300 reais per day, 9,100 per week.
● Rafting or tree climbing + zip lining, 120 reais (@apuamarafting).
● By Bus tourist bus, 150 reais.
● Sandboard, 33 reais per hour.
● Lunch in a medium restaurant with drinks, 60/70 reais; dinner at a good beachfront restaurant, at least 130 reais. Large pizza, 60 reais; Natural oysters (with cachaça, honey and lemon), from 45 reales per dozen.
● In beach resorts: natural juice, 15 reales; 350 ml beer, 10 reais; half a liter of water, 6 reales; caipirinha, 22 reais.
An “official” real is priced at $174, but the most common thing is to use the “blue” real ($201) or the “card” real ($278). It is advisable to carry reais or dollars; Not all exchange houses accept pesos and the price is usually low.