It is a fact, today’s sunscreens are no longer sticky or leave the face white like those of yesteryear. They have evolved in such a way that they are currently the best allies to avoid sunburn, photoaging, skin photosensitivity, freckles, expression lines and skin cancer.
What innovations do they have? “Hoy, The new generations of photoprotectors have unified prevention and treatment in their formula of spots, wrinkles, laxity and other effects of skin aging by incorporating antioxidant active ingredients such as kojic acid, vitamin C, flavonoids, beta-carotenes, marine microalgae and even zinc, which is used to deflect UV rays. Another of the star trends is to use natural ingredients and not chemical filters,” anticipates Dr. Cristina Sciales.
Likewise, the cosmetic industry realized that it was necessary to develop protectors that combat not only the evils of constant sun exposurebut also those of light coming from electronic screens and artificial lights (LED).
“This light is the light band that contains the most energy and is harmful to the body: it accelerates the aging of our cells,” announces Dr. Cristina Pascutto, Eau Thermale Avène advisor. To combat it, Pierre Fabre Laboratories managed to develop the TriAsorB sunscreen, after 20 years of research. “It offers the natural photoprotective power of melanin and provides the skin with adequate photoprotection against all types of radiation,” explains Pascutto.
As protection against different light sources gains more and more relevance in the cosmetic industry, companies such as BASF Argentina launched new bioactives which can be applied in both sunscreens and other personal care products. “This is the case of labdanum extract, which protects the DNA of skin cells from the effects of exposure to UVB rays and blue light and accelerates cell renewal by up to 17%. Other components such as grass leaves preserve cellular DNA from the negative action of UVA, UVB and blue light. And the argan leaves create a shield against radiation and environmental pollution,” says Dr. Silvina Quintana Lazópulos, technical coordinator of the Personal and Home Care Chemicals division of BASF Argentina.
The good thing is that currently We can find formats for every taste: creams, lotions, sprays, gels, transparent or colored. “For example, sprays are best for body use, while ultra-light textures are ideal for the face due to their easy application and silky touch. For their part, cream gels provide extra hydration and are ideal for travel,” explains Dr. Georgina Logusso, Corporate Medical Marketing Manager of ISDIN Barcelona.
Their star sunscreen is Fusion Water Magic. “Its formula blends with the skin to optimize protection and give a silky touch. It is immediately absorbed. It is also not irritating to the eyes or comedogenic. Without mineral oils, it is suitable for oily skin because it controls excess sebum in the skin,” he adds.
Furthermore, in the market there are protectors with “dry touch”, perfect for oilier skin, and others that are more moisturizing for dry skin. Creams and emulsions can be found in bottles, vials, stick and pencil and even in sprays.
“The star of our line is the new SPF 50 Dry Effect sunscreen, which contains silica, a component that provides an immediate anti-shine result; and glycerin, which acts as a moisturizer. It also has vitamin E, which is an antioxidant and helps prevent premature aging of the skin, and allantoin, which regenerates the dermis and leaves it smooth,” explains Dr. María Inés Hernández, a doctor specializing in Dermatology and advisor to Andrómaco.
Sensitive skin is also in the crosshairs of new developments. “We have a sunscreen, the Perfectionist Pro Multi-Defense, with such a light texture that it does not generate heat, does not occlude the skin and allows it to breathe. In addition, it is anti-irritant: it contains algae extract and caffeine that keep the skin free of redness,” reveals Yanina Mayor, cosmiatrician and coordinator of the Estée Lauder Argentina education team.
Also for reactive dermis Clinique created a sunscreen whose formula is oil-free, which promotes skin breathing and the absorption of excess oil. “It is perfect to use alone or as an invisible primer before makeup, since it has a touch of tint that perfects the tone and is suitable for all skin types,” reports Ana Laura Viera, Resident Trainer at Clinique Argentina.
Without a doubt, over the years, protectors have improved significantly in several aspects, in addition to prevent the harmful effects of UVA and UVB rays.
“It is known that exposure to these radiations increases the risk of serious problems such as the appearance of melanoma or skin cancer. To enhance the effectiveness of our protectors, we add beneficial ingredients for the dermis to the formula, such as argan oil (SPF 30 and 50) and shea butter (SPF 40), which are water resistant and use a combination of chemical filters. and physical to provide more effective and safe protection,” concludes María Fernanda Jaime Andreu, manager of Research, Development, Quality and Regulatory Affairs at Lidherma.
