For a moment we are invaded by the feeling of being in the most inhospitable place on the planetas if we were crossing the North Pole or trying to find life in the frozen tundra of Siberia.
But no, we are a few meters from the base of the Batea Mahuida snow parkand 10 km away Villa Pehueniain Neuquén, on top of some snowmobiles that wind through araucarias. But the snow and the time – with less light – give the sensation of a deep and white immensity that fascinates.
We ascend until the crater of the Batea Mahuida volcano on the back, where you can see nothing but a white mantle and a background of mountains. But upon arrival, our guide, Manuel Calfuqueo, asks us for our cell phones for the photo in question and the illusion ends. Still, behind our colorful snow clothes, everything is white, and the lagoon “is there, frozen and under the snow”, newspaper.
Los snowmobile tours -5 in total, including the top of the volcano and the border with Chile- are one of the activities offered by Batea Mahuida, a snow park ideal to enjoy with family and learn: with 4 lifts and 8 slopes, the center – managed by the Puel Mapuche community – offers much cheaper rates Compared to other resorts, very attractive to enjoy the snow without making your pocket suffer so much.
“I like that almost all of us are in the samewedging and trying to learn to turn and brake,” Claudio, a Neuquén who is taking up skiing for the first time, and decided to go without instructors, tells me as we board the T-bar from the base.
Renata and her friend Mateo, on the other hand, are 5 years old and are taking their first ski lesson together with his parentsafter having “used up” the descents of the large sleigh sector, or “culipatín”.
Around, the families They are installed with beach chairs and bags with mate, cookies, sandwiches. In any case, the restaurant on the hill has quite affordable prices. And it still has a very good quantity and quality of snow, so the season continues “at least until the end of September“, warns Claudio.
Lakes, forests and good food
El Batea is, of course, the main winter attraction in Villa Pehuenia, but not the only one. The araucana araucaria foreststhose ancient trees considered living fossils and sacred for the Mapuche – they are protected by law – they are also a magnet, since this area of Neuquén and its mirror on the other side, in Chile, is the only one in the world where they grow naturally.
The walks along the shores of Lake Aluminé, with its beautiful sandy beaches -in summer they are spas, since the water temperature is quite warm- and its islets are other attractions, as well as kayaking.
And if the condition of the road allows it -due to the snow and mud, although they maintain it quite well-, there is the Pehuenia Circuit, which here they call “route of the 5 lakes”.
From Pehuenia, route 11 passes through the town of Moquehue20 km and on the shores of the lake of the same name, and continues south and then east, taking a turn that allows you to enjoy mountain landscapes, forests, waterfalls, geological walls, lakes such as Ñorquincó or Pulmarí and a river that fascinates fans of the fly fishing.
And, of course, the gastronomy. Because Villa Pehuenia-Moquehue -they make up the same municipality- is “Provincial Capital of Neuquén Gastronomy”, and boasts high-flying restaurants and several typical flavors led by pine nutsfruit of the araucaria tree, with which flours and sauces are made that accompany Patagonian flavors such as cordero, trout o red fruits.
To prove this, there is nothing better than the National Festival of the Patagonian Chef, which every May brings together famous chefs -his godparents are Dolly Irigoyen and Christophe Krywonis- with local chefs and producers
How to get to Villa Pehuenia
● From Buenos Aires to Pehuenia are 1.450 km via route 205 to Bolívar and then routes 65, 60, 18, 35, 152, 143, 151, 22 and 13. In winter, RP 13 is usually closed, and from Zapala you have to take route 46 to Aluminé and then 23 (1,536 km).
● Aerolíneas, Flybondi and Jetsmart fly to Neuquén. Round trip from $64,522.
● From Neuquén, Albus bus (7 hours), $42,135 one way.
Where to stay in Villa Pehuenia
● La Patagonia Secreta: senior cabin for 5, $89,000; for 7, $100,000. Premium, $105,000 for 6, $110,000 for 7. Apartment for 2, $54,900; for 4, $71,900 (www. la patagoniasecreta.com).
How much does it cost
● Ski pass for the day, $25,500; half day, $21,000. Equipment rental, $16,500 all day, $13,500 half day. Class for one, $24,000; for two, $42,000; group, $19,500 per person.
● Snowmobiles: to the pehuenes forest, $25,000; to the Batea crater, $70,000; to the summit, $150,000 (per motorcycle, up to two people, 2942-511312).
● Snowshoe walks: $18,000 to the pehuenes forest, $40,000 to the Batea.