Creole flavors and country air, on a getaway to Las Marianas

The typical aroma of flavors of the countryside bursts into the air The Marianas when one sets foot in this rural town, nestled in the middle of the vast horizon covered by the fields of the Navarro district, from the empty platform of the Belgrano Sur Railway.

Right in front of the station, the Abraham family is in charge of bringing the company’s homemade specialties to the right level of cooking. El Porvenir bakerywhile, a few meters away, the Doña Irma restaurant is in charge of delighting the palates with the glorious noodles and ravioli kneaded by the prodigious hands of Irma Angrigiani.

The culinary tradition of this backwater sustained by just over 400 inhabitants It is maintained through pure effort and passion, despite the shocks delivered by recurring crises and political decisions, among them the hardest moment recorded in the past of Las Marianas: the closure of the branch, three decades ago.

Far from being defeated, the neighbors glimpsed the tourism as a possible outletalthough they took special care to preserve local identity.

With this premise, reference sites that could attract visitors were valued, where the attraction of the good food alternates with the indelible marks of the past.

These two predominant aspects coexist harmoniously in the El Nuevo Recreo country restauranta family business that opened its doors to customers four months ago at the El Recreo general store.

If in the days of the old country bowling alley – a relic from 1926 that was recently run by “Coco” Corbetta – the mus, the trick and the vermouth were the most prized items for rural workers, now the clientele seems subjugated by the smoky taste of each of the delicacies of chef Griselda Ojeda.

“Meat empanada cut with a knife and prepared on a disc, ricotta cannelloni, cream and vegetables, chopped country bread, eggplant, dry chorizo ​​and salami from the local producer El Chufi, flan and rice pudding with cinnamon,” he recites from memory Mauro Ojeda – the owner of the house with his wife Mariana Tueso – the best repertoire that his cook sister is capable of offering.

Without raising his voice, Ojeda praises the robustness of the brick and mud walls, the shelves and the wooden counter and the collection of antique objects that the restaurant houses, some of the reasons that led the Navarro Deliberative Council this year to declare the “Historical Building” place.

Like a seasoned storm pilot who covers several fronts, the owner interrupts the guided tour to assist the children of a large family of diners, clinging to the palenque, ready to divide themselves between the sulky and a couple of horses and start a walk through the town.

The streets recovered their usual relaxed atmosphere, with sporadic arrivals of cars and pedestrians, after the massive public attendance generated at the end of November by the Mate and Black Cakes Festival.

The town square once again offered its well-known trilling concert without interference and the regulars of the La Medialuna drinks bar -better known by the locals as “Lo de Mimí Masmú”- they resumed their routine every evening without being observed by the inquisitive gaze fired by unknown faces.

Face to face with the grove crossed by straight paths that converge at a mast, the Santa Teresita chapel is the precious legacy left here by the Navarrese priest Miguel de Andrea. “The foundation stone was laid in 1930, but the inauguration was in 1934, after the French stained glass windows, the bell tower and the oak door were donated, explains guide Nancy Eberle.

In addition to these details, the temple is a display of impressive pieces, ranging from the Via Crucis designed by Austrian craftsmen from Innsbruck to the altar with marble bases and venetian guards, the unbacked wooden benches, the marble baptismal stone and onyx, the rococo roses that cover the vaulted ceiling of the altar and the bellows piano of the choir.

The unexpected appearance of Eberle on a bicycle, key in hand to enter the chapel, is also key to guiding the next steps of the journey. “A block and a half from here, the station, founded in 1908was converted into a Retirement Center, a museum, an organic farm and a market for fruits, vegetables and artisanal products,” he clarifies about the next scale.

The tiny metal structure of a fox remains motionless, although ready to give life to the train stop again.

Behind, heading east, the route appears clear, since neighbor Máximo Abraham – driven by the collective dream of recovering the branch – called a group of friends to clean with a machete the weed that hid the tracks for 25 kilometers to Navarro.

Back at El Nuevo Recreo, Mariana Tueso appeals to the resources of her Initial Education teacher training to conduct the teaching with a didactic sense. farm visit that the diners have just undertaken, more than satisfied with the timely excuse they found to delay their return home. The sunny day and the prevailing tranquility also make their contribution to that state of well-being.

In the bowling alley hall, a couple of Buenos Aires tourists stretch out the after-dinner meal, while Mauro Ojeda advises them on the most representative varieties of this area rich in recognized quality cheeses.

“Sardo, provoleta, provolón and tybo, in that order,” the host mentions without hesitation. Outside, a warm wind sways the trees, chickens and rabbits run in a pasture, a distant cricket makes its rhythmic sound and a fleeting neigh is heard. Everything is in order in Las Marianas.

How to get. From the city of Buenos Aires to Las Marianas it is 150 kilometers via West Access to Luján and routes 5 and 47; Pass Navarro, turn right onto Route 41, continue 5 km and detour 20 km to the left along a dirt road. Other options to Navarro: Western access to Merlo and route 40 (ex 200) or Riccheri, Highway to Cañuelas, route 6 to Marcos Paz and route 40.

Bus 136 from Primera Junta to Navarro, $296. From Once passing through Luján arrives the bus 57 Atlántida.

Remís for 4 people from Navarro to Las Marianas, $10,000 (02272-420-355).

Where to stay. In Navarro, dormys La Fernanda (152- 5948530 / www.lafernanda.com.ar).

Hotel Navarro Plaza: rooms with breakfast, garage, cable TV and wi-fi (02227- 15543423 / www.navarroplaza.com).

What to eat. Unique and free Creole menu (picada, two main dishes and dessert) at the El Nuevo Recreo country restaurant, in Las Marianas (02227- 15467546 / 02227- 15531688).

Where to get information. (156) 6033675 / (02272) 430-500 / turismo@navarro.gob.ar / www.navarro.gob.ar