a little-known Chilean destination that offers everything

The afternoon sun makes the colorful fishing boats that sway with the gentle waves a few meters from the window, while inside delicacies keep arriving to the table.

We could spend the entire afternoon enjoying the view and the flavors that Claudio Avilés Badilla shares, at the head of North Pointa family restaurant that he set up in the house that his grandfather built years ago, and that had to be rebuilt after the 2010 earthquake.

Of course, in Chile and facing the sea, the specialty could not be other than the freshest and tastiest fish and seafood that you can imagine. As the crazy sailor, with seafood that comes from near Quiriquina Island, right in front, and includes portions of locos, machas and shrimp. There is Crab cake and that pancha conger eel which Claudio learned to season with the simplicity and effectiveness with which it is done on board fishing boats, and a long menu of flavors of the sea.

It is one of the great treasures of this area of ​​Chile, which shares the Ñuble region and the north of Biobíoan area whose beachhead is Conception -second city in Chile, 500 km south of Santiago-, which has another strong base in Chillan and that perfectly combines a wide variety of landscapes: from the sea to the mountains in the blink of an eyefrom stews or snow stews to fish and seafood on the beach.

“The landscapes that surround the regions of Ñuble and Biobío allow us to experience in the same day beach, vineyards, culture, snowaventura and much more,” summarizes Alejandro Leiva, head of Protur, the Tourism and Culture Association of the Ñuble and Biobío regions.

A while on the route and we arrived at the MDS hotel in Chillán, with just enough time to get off and walk a few steps to the casino, but not before enjoying the Procer barwhere the Parra family – headed by the father, David Carrasco Parra – develops their passion for craft beers.

The brewmaster is his son Nicolás, and his other son, Eduardo, is a bartender and create super original drinkslike Grapefruit Sunrise, a crushed blueberry with subtle lemon, vodka macerated with grapefruit for a week, Dedos Flojos beer -west coast IPA-, “and on top a touch of ginger beer, which gives it effervescence and a slight sting on the tongue”, Eduardo describes.

Heading towards the coast, towards the northwest, we begin to see the undulations and meadows of the Itata Valleywhich stands out for its landscapes and its production of wheat, fruit trees, and vines.

“Wine in Chile is born in the Itata Valley. The Spanish came planting vines where they colonized, and it was here where they did best,” says Susana Villegas in the colonial Santa Berta winery, an extraordinarily restored farm from the beginning of the 20th century.

“Have the oldest plants in Chile and with true roots, without grafts, which are a true heritage. The first records date back to the year 1550, with vines such as Muscat of Alexandria, Country or Semillon,” he adds, as we tour the beautiful gardens where events – such as weddings – are held among orange trees, Japanese maples and other species. “The oldest trees are 100 years old”says Susana.

The mountainous landscape, with green and cultivated slopes, forests and picturesque rural towns – such as Ninhue, famous for its handmade fabrics, especially hats– accompanies us until the winding route heads down the ravine to meet the sea, on small sandy beaches hidden between hills.

One of them is Cobquecuraa beach that could go unnoticed by many, but never by surfers, who come in dozens to enjoy one of the most famous waves in Chile to practice this sport.

As a boy, Rodrigo Villa Núñez came from Concepción to spend the summer here, who became a surfer, fell in love with the place and fulfilled his dream of working with tourism and even more so, being one of its main promoters.

“We started in 2015, knowing little about hospitality but with a lot of drive. 10 years ago there was almost nothing in the place, and we always put a lot of effort, because since we opened we are continually changing, generating new things,” he says in the restaurant at the ecolodge Swearing Thingswith a great view of the sea.

Rodrigo’s next plan is to add more rooms where the current restaurant is and make a new one with independent access and “totally sustainable.”

In the center of Cobquecura, 5 km from the hotel, guide Doris Soto Leiva says that the name of the town means “stone bread“, although it also has another meaning related to the sea ​​lionssince on some rocky islets in front of the beach there are up to 4,000 copies.

From the lobería to the rock formation known as the Stone Church extends one of the two monuments of Cobquecura: the nature sanctuary. “From the coast, in spring you can see sei and humpback whales and orcas,” says Doris.

The other monument is arquitectura colonial from the center, with adobe and flagstone constructions.

We continue 11 km north, next to the sea, until Buchupureoanother destination for surfers, where José Tomás Ibarra and his friends – who called themselves “The Natives of the Sea” – promote the sport with a school that gives free classes to local childrenr to promote “surf culture”, which has a lot to do with respect for nature and local culture.

“This project is crazy due to the place, the temperatures and the proximity of the sea. Many people told me that he was crazy, but I I was convinced I was going to get wine here.“, says Bernardo Chamorro while uncorking a bottle of Nativos del Bosque, one of the wines he managed to obtain in this paradise in the middle of a native mountain, on the shores of the Pacific.

After years of working in gastronomy, Bernardo opened two cabins that overlook the Pacific coast from above, offering incredible sunsets. Very close by he created a reserve in a native mountain and, on a slope facing north, planted the vineswhich are now beginning to bear fruit.

It’s time to return to Concepción, but not before stopping by the impressive hotel and spa Mount Waters, 30 km from the city. An immense complex in the middle of nature with super comfortable rooms, swimming pools, facial and body treatments, games for children and event rooms.

We leave for last the tour of the city led by Antonio Oses, from Turismo Avatar. A walk takes us through the Ecuador park and Víctor Lama Avenue to the imposing Arch of Biological Sciences of the University of Concepción, which leads to the unmissable University campus.

At the exit we cross Plaza Perú and walk along the Pedro Aguirre Cerda diagonal, full of bars and restaurants, to the Courts, in front of the enormous Mall del Centro -data for shopping trip- and from there to Plaza Independencia to see a curious error in the imposing porticos of the Cathedral (we will have to discover it).

After lunch at the Aurelio hotel restaurant, there is time to cross the long bridge over the Biobío River and reach the beautiful Laguna Grande de San Pedro parka green and silent haven ideal for walking, cycling or spending a day with the family, just a few minutes from the busy center, which makes it clear that the nature that surrounds the city is one of its great treasures.

There is barely time for dinner at the Wyndham Pettra hotel, surrounded by malls and shops that tempt those who come to buy. But that is another story.

For the low cost JetSmart from Buenos Aires to Concepción, with a stopover in Santiago de Chile, tickets from $415,481 per person, round trip. For those who have Clarín 365, discounts 15% (Classic) and 20% (Plus) on tickets to fly until September 30, 2024.

• In Concepción, Wyndham Pettra: double room with breakfast from US$ 99 (@wyndhampettra).
• In Chillán, MDS Chillán (5 est.): from US$ 99 (mdshotelchillan).
• In Cobquecura, Raku Antu Ecolodge: US$104 Sunday to Wednesday, US$126 Thursday to Saturday (@rukaantu).

● In Caleta Tumbes, Punta Norte restaurant: crab cake, US$ 15.5; crazy, US$18.7; crazy sailor, US$ 24 (@puntanortetumbes).

● In Chillán, Bar Prócer: hamburgers from US$ 8.70; pint of beer, $4.90 (@barprocer).

● In Cobquecura, Ruka Antu restaurant: seafood empanada, US$4; mixed salmon ceviche, US$16; margherita pizza, US$13 (@rukaantu).

● In Concepción, Hotel Aurelio restaurant: pizzas from US$ 15.8: hamburgers, from US$ 13.7 (aureliohotelapart).

• Surf class in Buchupureo, US$ 23 (@escueladesurfolasaltas);
• City tour Concepción, US$ 25;
• Night Party Tour Concepción, US$ 37 (@turismo avatar);
• Spa day in Aguas del Monte, from US$ 27.40 (aguasdelmonte.spa).

● chileestuyo.cl/regiones/region-de-nuble;@sernaturnuble

● chileestuyo.cl/regiones/region -del-biobio;@biobioestuyo