Anti-aging creams at 16 years old? Girls and the risks of a new addiction to cosmetics

Driven by social networks and influencers, the consumption of beauty products among young people between 12 and 18 years old is increasing. This phenomenon is known as cosmeticorexiaand is established in a context of female empowerment and pressure for image.

It is a fact. More and more minors are buying and using creams, dark circle concealers and anti-aging products, which are as unnecessary as they are harmful to your skin. This is demonstrated by the numbers.

“Nationally, our research indicates that 78% of girls between 13 and 18 years old frequently buy personal care products and at least 48% acquired some makeup in the last year. Hand in hand, the market for serums, skin treatments and those aimed at adolescents due to hormonal changes, such as anti-acne medications, is growing. Another worrying fact is that we find 3% of young people who consume anti-aging products in the 16 to 18 age group,” reveals Ximena Díaz Alarcon, co-founder & CEO of the consulting firm Youniversal.

What explains the need to put on makeup and cream at such a precocious age? “Definitely to social networks. Instagram, Tik Tok y YouTube They are the main promoters of the use of makeup and creams among minors, who consume these applications by seeing other girls using them, and thus believing they have permission to use them. In this way, the cosmetic industry and digital creators and influencers they generate a new need in childhood“, responds Silvina Alejandra Bruey, child and adolescent dermatologist at the Italian Hospital of Buenos Aires and member of the Argentine Society of Dermatology (SAD).

“This behavior is also strongly linked to expectations about the beauty ideals unrealistic ones imposed by the media and especially virtuality, where girls imitate the practices that influencers expose and follow the advice to belong and try to obtain the same acceptance as their peers. In turn, skin care and the use of beauty products reflects how childhood and puberty skip stages of life to adopt adult habits“, highlights Alexis Alderete, graduate in Psychology and specialist in Anxiety Disorders and Skills Training (Forum Foundation).

And he continues: “It is important to support girls in the development process, so that they understand that much of what they consume is not real. The consequences of wanting to achieve a certain lifestyle can lead to constant dissatisfaction or frustration because the obsessive practices -such as retouching the photos that are shared on their social networks down to the smallest detail- can cause anxiety disorders, low self-esteem and body dysmorphia (constant worry about a perceived defect in one’s own body). Limiting cell phone use and encouraging healthier and leisure practices where technology is not involved (reading and sports) are of great help to avoid anxiety,” he comments.

In addition to mental damage, the use of cosmetics on early skin is counterproductive. “It has consequences such as contact dermatitis, eczema, irritations, cosmetic acne, secondary hypo- and hyperpigmentation, and even burns!” warns Bruey.

Another very common pathology is the appearance of cosmetic acne. “It is the one that manifests or is aggravated by the frequent use of makeup or beauty products that are usually comedogenic. It happens that children’s skin does not have the protection mechanisms that adult skin does. So, when they apply a cosmetic that is not for them, the pores, which are the follicular openings that allow the sebaceous gland to drain its contents, become clogged. And the sebum stuck inside becomes the favorite food of the bacteria and fungi that colonize us. That, added to their irritating properties to the cells that surround it, they end up generating acne. The first step to treat this condition requires completely eliminating the causal factor, which, in this case, is cosmetic,” explains Marina Bois, dermatologist.

But there is more. Even the sight of the littlest ones can make them sick. “In the case of eye health can cause conjunctivitis or blepharitis, inflammation of the conjunctiva and eyelash area respectively. This is due to components such as emulsifiers, surfactants, colorants, silicones and metals that makeup contains,” Bois lists.

“Proper skin care involves cleaning, moisturizing and sun protection. Of course, doing so with age-appropriate products is a healthy practice. But this can be harmful if you choose those that contain anti-aging active ingredients such as retinoids or acids, which can cause redness, burning and even leave stains. Additionally, some can cause skin sensitivity at a young age, causing the skin to continue reacting to these components in the long term,” explains María Jimena Martínez, children’s dermatologist.

Now, the skincare in childhood and adolescence is very specific, and if extra basic products are required, these They must be indicated and supervised by a professional. “It is very important to note that they have an ideal and normal complexion, therefore they do not need any additional cosmetics, just cleaning once a day with the creamy soap from the daily bath and protector solar FPS 50+ when leaving home. Of course, if there is a pathology, such as atopic dermatitis or keratosis pilaris, we will add a specific emollient for each person,” adds Bruey.

When it comes to adolescence, care is different, since the skin in general tends to be more oily, mainly in the T zone. “I advise using a gel cleanser with or without salicylic acid (used to treat acne) or gentler, such as micellar water. The important thing is that they contain the pH closest to that of the dermis to be treated. For its part, sunscreen should be a dry or oil-free version. Everything must be complemented with a good nutrition, which includes real foods and avoids junk food and multi-processed foods; physical exercise; drinking plenty of water and getting a good rest,” prescribes Bruey.

Finally, Bois states that to have a ideal skin It is enough to have a healthy complexion. This is achieved by cleaning it with mild products and, if necessary, moisturizing it with creams without added corrosive substances, dyes or synthetic fragrances. The ideal is always to adopt those made with more natural ingredients such as organic flower water or aloe vera, to name a few.

“It is worth noting that children have higher levels of melatonin (antioxidant action) and growth hormone and lower levels of cortisol, so their skin has a greater repair and regeneration capacity compared to an adult. This means that it is not necessary to incorporate extra active ingredients in them. As parents, we have the obligation to talk openly with our children, listen to them, ask them why they want to wear makeup to school and be available to patiently explain to them how harmful it is to apply things to their faces at such a young age. “It is one thing to play at putting on makeup and removing it after a while, and another is to use mascara, lipstick and foundation to go to school.”