London Fashion Week: 40 years of innovations

Between veteran brands and emerging designers, the youngest of the great international fashion weeks turns 40 years old.

From Friday the 16th to Tuesday the 20th of February, the autumn-winter edition of London Fashion Week celebrated its anniversary with more than 80 events, including catwalks and presentationsboth live and in digital format.

Since its creation in 1984 por el British Fashion Council –a non-profit organization dedicated to promoting British fashion both locally and globally– London Fashion Week has been one of the most innovative spaces in the industry.

Some of the most iconic moments in fashion history have happened on its catwalks. Perhaps the most famous example is the two-robot spray-painted dress worn by model Shalom Harlow during the closing of the Alexander McQueen show, when he presented his spring-summer 1999 season.

Or when designer Hussein Chalayan turned a coffee table into a dress for its autumn-winter 2000.

Erdem. Another black and white proposal in a capsule that plays with the diversity of genres and textures. Photo: AFP.

Its last edition did not lack notable moments. The Turkish fashion show, Dilara Fındıkoğlu, impacted with hyper-detailed designs that they play with the feminine, the masculine and the theatrical.

Richard Quinn.  White, black, glitter and transparencies in a collection that included bridal looks.  Photo: AFP.Richard Quinn. White, black, glitter and transparencies in a collection that included bridal looks. Photo: AFP.

Also, the SRVC parade gave something to talk about. With a setup that crossed three traditional London buses, the models walked up and down their stairs as if they were heading to work. They wore clothes from a collection full of modern tailoring, cut outs y layering.

SRVC.  He set up his parade on a route of three London groups.  Photo: AFP.SRVC. He set up his parade on a route of three London groups. Photo: AFP.

JW Anderson opted for XL fabrics, exaggerated silhouettes, fringes and even details with ropes in a collection that has fun with figure and form.

JW Anderson.  Blazers and XL fabrics are the winter signature that plays with silhouettes and textures.  Photo: AFP.JW Anderson. Blazers and XL fabrics are the winter signature that plays with silhouettes and textures. Photo: AFP.

On the other hand, Sinead Gorey was inspired by teenage rebellion to create a striking proposal with prints such as tartan, stripes, argyle y even a dress with it union jack of the British flag.

Sinead Gorey.  A capsule full of prints and colors, inspired by the chaos and nostalgia of adolescence.  Photo: AFP.Sinead Gorey. A capsule full of prints and colors, inspired by the chaos and nostalgia of adolescence. Photo: AFP.

Paul Costelloe also opted for prints but in a slightly more sober capsule, in which there are plenty he layeringretro silhouettes and neutral tones.

Paul Costelloe.  The Irish-American designer opted for oversized tailoring and prints.  Photo: AP.Paul Costelloe. The Irish-American designer opted for oversized tailoring and prints. Photo: AP.

As part of the initiative NewGen to give exposure to new designers, 22 young brands participated, such as Chet Lo, faithful to his pointed genres; Di Petsa, with her iconic “wet” dresses and Tolu Coker, who was inspired by traditional Ghanaian prints, among other new talents.

Noon by Noor.  The designer duo revamped coats such as the coat and the trench, from a modern and eclectic proposal.  Photo: EFE.Noon by Noor. The designer duo revamped coats such as the coat and the trench, from a modern and eclectic proposal. Photo: EFE.

Burberry, led by Daniel Lee, was in charge of closing the week, with a show that model Naomi Campbell participated. She wore a black design made of textured fabric and covered in glitter.

Burberry.  Supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the show.  Photo: AP.Burberry. Supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the show. Photo: AP.
Fashion East.  Black and latex in the show organized by the non-profit dedicated to exposing new talents.  Photo: AFP.Fashion East. Black and latex in the show organized by the non-profit dedicated to exposing new talents. Photo: AFP.
David Koma.  Monochrome set with fringe details, from its fall-winter 2024 collection. Photo: AFP.David Koma. Monochrome set with fringe details, from its fall-winter 2024 collection. Photo: AFP.

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