What the new Camino de los Pintores is like in the north of Córdoba

In April 1917, newly installed at the foot of the hills in the north of Córdoba, Fernando Fader raised the flag: “I don’t look except as a painter. My eyes have no other procedure, as if they fatally had before them a prism that renders everything in tones, values, brushstrokes, expressions. When I look at nature, a stone, a log, a cow or a pig, I look at it already paintedsifted by my pictorial spirit.”

The most complete declaration of principles of the French painter born in Bordeaux in 1882 would be the trigger for a profuse artistic career, which this prodigal student of the impressionist school: In his colorful oil paintings on canvas, Fader reflected better than anyone else the infinite nuances of the semi-urban and rural landscape of Ischilín.

Part of that imprint – which was taken up by dozens of disciples from the region -, exhibited in the Fernando Fader House Museum, in Corra Earthenwarel, marks the starting point of the Path of the Painters of Northern Cordobaa 100-kilometer route that links historical sites, natural landscapes, colonial towns located on the side of the old Camino Real of the Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata to Alto Perú and the legacy of the most renowned artists of the Ischilín, Tulumba and Río departments Dry.

Thus, in the nine suggested scales, in addition to the illustrious figure of Fader, other weight names appear such as Martín Santiago, Mario Sanzano, Alberto Hornet, Sergio and Teco Díaz. To avoid the risk of missing details, a signage system with maps and QR codes allows access to videos and podcasts that reward the interest of visitors with very complete information.

The left wing of Fader’s house –designed by himself on terraced gardens with an irrigation system, framed by walnut trees and a river – shelters the atelier, where the artist’s easel, his palettes, pencils, inks, watercolors, photos, drawings, paintings, letters and books rest.

Fader arrived in that wasteland of pure air and dry climate in 1916 with the purpose of stopping the tuberculosis that was stalking him, and he stayed in the middle of this inspiring landscape until his death in 1935.

8 kilometers from Loza Corral, in Ischilinthe superb façade of the Fernando Fader School It stands out among the harmonious set of colonial architecture that the town displays, a mark of distinction that Carlos Fader, grandson of the most revered figure for several kilometers around, was in charge of restoring.

The third point to keep in mind before retracing the 20-kilometer dusty gravel road that leads to Dean Funes is the Ischilin Cemeterywhose most visited plot is the one that houses the tomb of Fernando Fader.

To learn about the strong artistic and social commitment assumed by Martín Santiago through his paintings in Dean Funes You have to take time to point in two directions: towards the Bus Terminal – where a ceramic mural by Fader’s most reliable disciple is exhibited – and the Artist’s House Museum.

Furthermore, this city that rises at the crossroads of routes 60 and 16 offers cultural spaces aimed at reaffirming local identity, such as the Archaeological, Paleontological and Historical Museumwhich recreates the prehistoric times when glyptodonts imposed a presence here, the time of the Ayampitín culture and the small founding epic of the city.

Already headed down the paved path of Route 16, at first glance, Villa Tulumba It is shown in accordance with the definition of “one of the most beautiful towns in the world”, as determined by the Best Tourism Villages contest promoted by the UN. It is likely that the “Four Corners” intersection boasts the ideal view to inspire the best works – as artists in the area often do.

Surrounded by the suggestive silhouettes of the hills, the dome of the Nuestra Señora del Rosario church replicates the intense colors of the natural landscape in its interior intervened by murals by Martín Santiago.

The temple, built in 1881, also sports a baroque tabernacle made of one-piece Paraguayan cedar, painted in gold leaves by Guaraní settlers for the Jesuit missions of Córdoba, in the 17th century.

San Pedro North177 kilometers north of Córdoba capital, owes its fame beyond the provincial limits to the merger of Gothic architecture with colonial style lines that the glare of the sun and the moon usually stand out in the Nuestra Señora de la Merced church. The temple and other buildings that are more than 200 years old often attract the curiosity of painters and other artists.

That irresistible attraction – which is also observed in the arid and flat landscape of fireplace– remains unchanged since Fader released the first strokes of his brush.

“We are the third generation from the north of Córdoba and we observe the emergence of a new generation of artists who leave their testimony and enrich us with their work. We are landscape like Fader was, who blended into becoming landscape,” explains Mario Sanzano the artist’s close bond with his place.

The same passion for the land had expressed Atahualpa Yupanqui As soon as he set foot on Cerro Colorado. The author of “El arriero” was born in Pergamino (province of Buenos Aires) and died in France in 1992, but he had made a reservation when he observed the framework of hills crossed by the Los Tártagos river, cave paintings and friendly peasants, and he honored with the “Chacarera of the stones”: here, where his house was another piece of the landscapehad to be buried.

Tourists from the five continents make pilgrimages throughout the year to the home of the musician and singer, converted into a museum. In February, this unavoidable visit is complemented by the Provincial Festival of Painters of Northern Cordoba.

Further south on Route 9, 80 kilometers from Córdoba capital, a museum open to the public in Villa del Totoral It houses more than 800 works by the landscape painter Octavio Pinto.

Watercolor paintings, drawings in graphite pencil and charcoal, letters, photos, sketches, palettes, brushes and personal diaries tell the artistic life of this Totoral native who began a strong friendship with the poets Pablo Neruda and Rafael Albertitwo other celebrities who knew how to appreciate the proverbial hospitality of the locals and decided to live in this town for a while.

Just as painters do it day after day, brush in hand, they were also responsible for establishing in their literary work this overflow of authentic beauty – devoid of makeup – that the north of Córdoba offers to sensitive souls.

From the city of Buenos Aires to Córdoba capital it is 705 kilometers along Route 9 (Panamericana Campana branch) or Route 8 (Panamericana Pilar branch) to Río Cuarto and Route 36.

Airlines fly direct from Aeroparque to Córdoba capital (1h): round trip with taxes, from $190,000.

Lep semi-sleeper bus, June 20, El Turista, El Práctico, Vía TAC, Betel, Vía Bariloche or La Unión from Retiro to Córdoba capital (9 a.m. to 11 a.m.), $30,000 to $49,400 one way; sleeper car, $45,000 to 58,500.

San Martín de Retiro train to the city of Córdoba (8 pm), $30,000 Pullman and $72,400 cabin for 2; from 3 to 12 years, 50%; retirees and pensioners, 60%. It leaves Buenos Aires on Thursdays and Sundays at 3:45 p.m. and returns from Córdoba on Fridays at 9:13 p.m. and Tuesdays at 5:00 p.m.

From Córdoba capital to Dean Funes (on the Circuito de los Pintores in northern Córdoba), Fonobus bus (2h 30′): $12,600 one way.

In Córdoba capital, Azur Real boutique hotel and spa: $103,900 plus VAT per night per person, double occupancy; with tour of the Azur Baths, $163,500 plus VAT (0351- 424-7133 / 0351- 153479119 / info@azurrealhotel.com / www.azurrealhotel.com / Facebook: Azur Real Hotel Boutique & Spa).

In Unquillo, La Rosa hostel and bed & breakfast: $23,000 per person, with shared bathroom, breakfast, barbecue area, barbecue, wi-fi and cable TV; double room with private bathroom en suite, $47,000 (0351- 153111669 / marisa_doniquian@hotmail.com / Facebook: Hostel La Rosa).

DEn Dean Funes, Boer hotel: double room with breakfast, safe, cable TV, wi-fi and garage, $91,400; triple, $106,300 (03521- 428-254 / 03521- 15403860 / reservas@hotelboier.com.ar / www.hotelboer.com.ar).

(0351) 152081238 / (0351) 420-5400 / prensa.cordobacultura@gmail.com / www.cultura.cba.gov.ar / Facebook: Cultura.Cba.